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LAST UPDATED February 12, 2005
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Buying Guide »Engine »Gearbox »Overdrive »Body »Chassis »Interior
Chassis
In my experience IRS chassis rust much quicker/worse than the older live-axle chassis (i would guess live-axle 4As suffer the IRS chassis problems). When driving a car check for rear-wheel steering under power or braking (i.e. the car changes direction as you apply power on a flat straight road). This can indicate that the trailing arms have partially torn out of the chassis due to terminal rust of the chassis rail. This results in wild variations in "toe in" and extra steering help when you least expect it. You can check this by jacking the car up and viewing the bolts which secure the training arm pivot brackets--is the chassis rail compressed or crushed? :-(

When driving the car with the top down (ideally close to a wall), do you hear odd clicks/clonks when going from forward to reverse? This could mean that at least one of the four differential mounting bolts has pulled out of the chassis. This can be fixed without removing the body, by removing the diff and careful welding.

At the front of the car the lower rear suspension arm mounting is weak. This normally fails when braking in reverse, luckily at low speed, but a high speed failure here is not unknown. It's common to strengthen this area by adding an extra bracket or reinforcement as Triumph did on the TR6. You must pay attention to this area, it is a design weakness. Chassis Repair
You cannot properly repair the chassis with the body on the car. Any plating of the chassis will most likely temporarily improve the look of the car, but it will rust from the inside out and a weak chassis does damage the body if driven

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