Interior
The good news is that almost everything is available; so you can buy yor way out of most
defficiencies. Do check that the seats are of the correct type (check with photos) and that,
when tilted forward, the metal frame is not terminally rusty (surface rust is normal). At least
then you have something to rebuild from. The "centre console" on a TR is not decorative...it's an
important structural element that acts as bracing to prevent scuttle shake. Make sure it's there
on any car you buy and make sure it's bolted down tight (and bolted to the dash) for that ultimate
TR experience.
Door trims rot much faster when the protective plastic sheet is missing from behing them. This sheet
should be glued to the frame and only have holes for the protroding mechanisms. If the door winder mechanisms
are missing teeth you can swap the passenger & drivers side to use a different part of the geared quadrant.
Many of the internal knobs & switches were shared with all the
other triumph modles, so do regard Triumph 2000s and Heralds
as valuable parts bins. The Triumph Spare Parts catalogue (PN
514837) has a complete list of cross-compatibility within the
Triumph range. Many other parts are shared with other vehicles
of the era (e.g.Door handles: Bedford Trucks, Rear
Lights: Aston Martin DB5 etc etc).
Dashboards are now remanufactured, but if desperate it's not unknown
to fashion one from an old wardrobe door.
Seat Belts were an option in 1965, old static belts seem to function longer
(older) than 30-year old inertia reel mechanisms. It's best to replace if you can.
The convertible top on a TR will need replacing every ~10 years. although expensive Mohair hoods
will last well, do take care to use a hood-bag to cover the exposed interior surface when the hood
is down as the inside material can photo-degrade very fast. When i last replaced the hood on my TR
I ordered one with a zip-out rear window, this allows better visibility & ventilation in changeable
conditions... not original but who's caring?